This type of switch comes in several configurations. This is a term used to many of the switches of this type, no matter the manufacturer. ![]() Most of those who use an isolator for marine applications have heard the Term Perko Switch. In this particular model, the 'key' is removable. As long as you don't mind having to manually flip the switch and can remember to do so, this is a good, simple solution. In one position, the batteries are connected. To use a battery disconnect switch like the one below to protect the starting battery from being discharged, you would simply connect it in series with the wire that connects the front and back batteries. The most basic isolator is simply a heavy duty switch (generally rated for at least 100 amps of current) that is used to make/break the connection between the batteries. This type of isolator is slightly more complex to install than the most basic types of isolators. Most people opt for isolators that require no action on their part to keep the starting battery from being discharged. A battery isolator will let you completely discharge one battery without discharging the starting battery. This often leads to dead batteries and a vehicle that won't start. The amp is just doing what it's suppose to do, amplify HOWEVER, It's amplifying the noise being created by the loop as well and the audio and that's what your hearing.Many people listen to their stereo or use accessories (lights, radio, TV, computers, for those with RVs) without the engine running. If it plays normal (no noise) with motor running and pumps on, it's a ground loop. Or in short, loop current occur because one device ground is higher than the other.Īgain and this only takes a second.Substitute a battery powered auto device (i-phone, mp3 player, etc) for the radio, this will break the loop. Might just fix it, however, it could only "reduce" it and it still may be there and the amp's gain will still just inherently continue to increase it.That's the amp job, increase whats coming in.Īs I stated above, sometimes single point grounds doesn't help too much due to the currents flowing to each device differs due to the nature of the device and differing currents through various resistances creates differing potentials at each of the devices (amp and radio) ground references. Moving the radio's ground to the amp's ground point could certainly help some due to creating a "single point ground" which is definitely best practice as it reduces loop currents. I've personally tested this one in the lab and run one myself FWIW, it has a very flat frequency response, I recommend it ![]() If the noise/hum is gone with the cell phone, then install a ground loop isolator transformer in-between radio/head and the amp.It'll break the loop. The cell phone, by default, is electrically isolated beings its battery powered. Īs a test to confirm the loop, take like a cell phone (ipod, mp3 player, etc, anything battery powered) with some audio on it and use it's audio out jacks (ya might need an adapter) as the audio source. I didn't read the trouble shooting guide above BUT definitally read over it as it could also apply and my suggestion below might be redundant.If so, apologies. It can happen, it's just a crap shoot sometimes and ya can work efficiently around it. I'll bet it's a " ground loop".Your wiring is fine from what you've described, it's just the design/s, their interactions and even a single point ground won't fix the issue/s due to the enviro and some restrictions. As you said, you can buy or build a simple noise filter, but it would be better to find and eliminate the source of noise if you can. Can you temporally get longer RCA cables so you can get the radio away from the amp? If the amp and radio are next to each other the amp may be inducing the interference into the radio. Sometimes you can eliminate induced interference by twisting the entire length of wires between the battery and amp wires. Can you temporally connect the amp directly to another battery with very short leads and see what happens? That would help determine if something like the alternator is inducing the interference into the wires or if the amp has poor shielding and the interference is being induced directly into the amp. Is that what you're hearing or is it a higher pitch swirling sound that changes pitch as you rev the motor? Is there a ground lug on the case of the amp? Either way run a wire from the case of the amp to a chassis ground. Is there any chance that the noise was there before installing the amp but now the amplifier is simply amplifying the noise especially while listening to a AM radio station? Normally a ground noise is describing a noise associated with an AC circuit known as ground hum, usually 60 Hz. ![]() I'm assuming all was good with the radio prior to installing the amp.
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